Courtesy Tom Ford
From come across-now, buy-now shows to traditional runways and all that's in-between, see the standout looks from New York's top collections.
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Marc Jacobs
In a season where the biggest trend has been designers showing their love for New York City, Marc Jacobs's rails was the caramel coating on the juicy big apple. Through exaggerated Kangol-mode hats, Seventies-worthy platform boots, big gold pendants and a synthesis of street style spanning from the Sugarhill Gang to OutKast, his collection was a reminder that revolutions begin in the street. At precisely 2 PM, the first models walked out in what Jacobs called his "representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear. It is an acknowledgment and gesture of my respect for the polish and consideration applied to mode from a generation that volition forever be the foundation of youth civilisation street style." He was speaking specifically of the hip-hop generation of the '70s, '80s and '90s.
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Marc Jacobs
There were the standards of American style: jackets, sweaters and denim in long, fluid Seventies silhouettes—the kind seen just effectually the fourth dimension hip-hop took root, co-opted these styles and created a whole new subculture. Here, argyle sweaters, menswear checked pants, giant fur coats and frilly lingerie walked with swagger and exaggerated backlog.
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Marc Jacobs
The styling was over-the-top, with Jacobs mentioning Andre 3000 at 1 point. But cleaved downward, the clothes were everyday: v-neck sweaters in blue, maroon, camel; zipped knit toppers; cashmere pants left a little loose (tailor at volition), and a lineup of bully leather bags. Fifty-fifty the tracksuit, Ã la Run DMC at its prime number.
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Marc Jacobs
Jacobs always puts extra effort into outerwear, and there were a ton of options here. Shearling-collared coats hit the right annotation of nostalgia while Fair Island-meets-bomber looks offered something new. The designer did not back away from fur, either, showing half fur-half tweed toppers and behemothic fur chubbies that were, to use '80s hip-hop vernacular, tight.
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Marc Jacobs
This flavour saw Jacobs philosophical, political and tired of jumping through hoops. Like other designers before him, he just wanted to design clothes he loved and present them without frenzy. He politely asked that his audition refrained from taking pictures (Busted, anyone who posted pics from the bear witness. You lot know who you lot are.), and later on the models lapped the runway, they sat outside on marked fold-up chairs—like the ones the guests sabbatum on—and took pictures of the guests as they left. How'south that for a fashion 180?
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Ralph Lauren
When Ralph decides to give a woman flowers, he doesn't half-ass it. It'southward non in his vocabulary. For his presentation, he transformed the uptown Madison Avenue Ralph Lauren flagship into a garden of greenery and orchids, a graceful stage from which he launched a collection (available right afterwards) of neutral-toned set-to-clothing that for Lauren-ites piece of work in Manhattan, Easthampton and Kenya.
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Ralph Lauren
Sporty separates like gently tailored blazers and button-downs mixed with solar day dresses cut either crisp and architectural or silky and fluid and crochet dresses. Lauren varied his silhouettes to give his clients multifariousness but kept the earthy palette consequent, adding in leopard totes and satchels, serpent platform sandals and bold, tribal metal necklaces to anchor it all.
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Ralph Lauren
At that place'southward e'er an element of leather and denim chez Ralph, this time seen in sexy motorcycle pants, a jumpsuit and a smashing belted jacket worn with harem pants—all black-on-black.
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Ralph Lauren
The silk road continued for evening, with a bevy of lustrous long gowns in crushed monotone silk or subtle florals. In a few places, Lauren brought in an exotic theme, seen in the sari-like shoulder drape of one gown or the print of some other.
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Ralph Lauren
In a true mix of high-low, uptown-meets-downtown and urban glamour, the show ended on a silk parachute gown in a painterly floral worn open over a pair of terrifically distressed jeans. You never know when yous might need to brand a dashing getaway.
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Derek Lam
Just clothes, thanks. Like he did last season, Derek Lam presented in a manner so civilized, editors and retailers were lulled into forgetting information technology was the tail end of Fashion Week. They sat on modern white leather couches (some not even having to share) while models walked through, and Lam himself leaned up against a nearby wall. No rarified Oz-backside-the-mantle; no forepart row fracas or jostle for a celebrity/social media/reality star picture. But dress, up close and personal. Much the way the women who would ultimately be ownership them in the store would meet them.
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Derek Lam
Lam swung from minimal and almost monastic in places to feminine—pastel blouse and off-white pleated skirt—and cheerfully vivid. Hello, cherry cherry-red turtleneck and purple leather skirt!
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Derek Lam
Up close is better—to parse that a red floral brocade arrange would be that daring purchase of the season, possibly worth information technology if yous are bold plenty to go for caput-to-toe. But also to discover that a purple leather brim can be a workhorse of a daytime wardrobe, specially cut in a clean '70s silhouette the style Lam did it.
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Derek Lam
There were no repeats hither—Lam wasn't wasting anyone'southward time, including his ain. A deconstructed fisherman sweater and black-and-white fur vest brought volume to the party, while long fluid pleated skirts were dotted with architectural studs and embellishment.
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Derek Lam
Lam seemed to have a freedom to effort things out, and they turned out nicely, whether a smart navy coat with placement embellishment or a costly belted look with vaguely maverick floral motif. On a track, these choices may non have made as much sense as they would in the intimate setting that resembled a seasonal closet. So, Lam for the win.
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Marchesa
The autumn runway collection at Marchesa is always met with a sure amount of anticipation and speculation. Which of Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig's confections volition become called by stylists to be worn to the biggest red carpet prize of them all: the Oscars? Friction match the actress to the dress: It's a fun game to play, as the dresses walk by in a range of otherworldly delights, and party season is still a few weeks away and it'south still too cold to retrieve well-nigh going blank-legged.
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Marchesa
Ruth Negga would look divine in the sheer pale purple strapless dress covered in tufts of feathers and beaded flowers and cinched with a giant satin bow. Or perhaps the ombre lace gown that followed. Either manner, there was something about that pastel tone... (We'll requite meaning Natalie Portman a goodbye this season, though her chameleon sartorial manner would let her to slip into virtually of these except perhaps the voluminous looks.)
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Marchesa
Isabelle Huppert and Emma Rock, two reddish brunettes, could pull off the darker romantic tones that were sent out. But Stone, in her 20s, might favor the more than lavish ballgown types while Huppert, in her 60s might non need the drama of a gown. Maybe the black columns with gold or silver florals for her. And it would be overnice to run across Nicole Kidman, with that meridian and hair, wear the gunmetal sequined apparel with the plunging neckline.
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Marchesa
The sheer dresses with fur and feathers feel similar the correct speed for the gamine actresses like Michelle Williams and Naomi Harris. Harris could probably pull off but almost any of these dresses, if we're being honest. Beaded olive, dripping in delicate beaded embroidery, would exist but the thing for Octavia Spencer.
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Marchesa
Which brings us to the grande dames Viola Davis and Meryl Streep. Here, it'southward more about the confidence of the woman and less nigh the clothes. While Viola we tin dream about Davis in one of those pale gowns with deep red floral embroidery, she could as well pull off the understated strapless green silk. Streep? Information technology'south anyone's guess. Though she does similar a bit of a plunging neckline...
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Delpozo
Josep Font explored emotion through the ages at Delpozo's autumn show. Too nature, color, movement, book, decoration and sculpture. The Spaniard'due south couture-like collections experience similar cipher else in New York or, for that matter Europe, toeing the line between homage to past design masters and future footing.
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Delpozo
Fall saw an increasing number of "separates" — industry speak for shirts, pants, sweaters and wardrobe items meant to exist paired and mixed with existing items in a cupboard. It's a off-white sign that Delpozo is looking to broaden its clientele, also. The Crayola-bright blouses — both mannishly button-down and poetically scrunched — and striped knits with hoods added dial and the total, fluid proportions of trousers, both cropped and long, made for an elegant argument.
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Delpozo
But Font likes design and colour, and fish and bird motifs were subtly worked in via oversized sequins placed strategically on oversized circumvolve bags, knits and skirts, as if to mimic the feathers or scales of those delicate animals. The patterns in the intarsia sweaters had the effect of viewing something underwater at a loftier speed.
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Delpozo
Rich maroon, green, black and blue silk florals and jacquards turned up in beautiful dresses with a breadth of silhouette. Long and sweeping, cinched and belled, evening coat-style, brusk and poufed or equally an evening suit.
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Delpozo
Font'south finale gowns were crafted to look like the idyllic landing spots of the prettiest birds — tiny flowers in film perfect grass, colorful stems poking out here and there.
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